Dr Vino's wine blog

Sparklers
Marquis de Perlade, Crémant d’Alsace, NV. $7
“In victory you deserve champagne, in defeat you need it,” said Napoleon. With such a view of sparkling wines for every occasion, perhaps Napoleon meant the more affordable crémant? With it difficult to find champagne under $25, crémant—or a sparkling wine from France ex Champagne—is an affordable alternative. This bubbly is a blanc de blancs, or from exclusively white grapes, which here are Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc (no Riesling!). Crisp and refreshing, it is an excellent aperitif for a big party. And hey, if you don’t like it, it makes a great base for mimosas! W.J. Deutsch & Son, importer.

Bernard-Massard, Luxembourg sparkling rosé, $10.50
While there are so many well-priced sparkling wines from Spain and France (crémants) the Bernard-Massard is probably my only chance to ever review a wine from Luxembourg. The Grand Duchy, known more for its banking than its wine-making has produced a crackling, dry rosé that sparkles. The firm acidity makes it a great complement to food, particularly seafood, and it would also make a great aperitif on the deck in the summer. With a price of €7, which converts poorly to over $10 in the US, there’s no need to save this one for New Year’s Eve (or, being a rosé, the heart-shaped tub).

White
Weingut F.K. Schmitt 2001 Niersteiner Kranzberg Riesling Kabinett $7.99
Rieslings aren’t just for grandmothers any more. Asian foods have become very popular here in the US and in a combination that must surprise the older producers along the Rhine, Riesling is a great complement to many Asian foods. This wine from the excellent 2001 vintage is no exception. From Nierstein, the wine has a straw color, floral aromas, and on the palate it has a nice balance of sweet with an acid base of tart fruits. Good on its own, this wine is greatly enhanced by your favorite stir-fry. Imported by Winesellers, Ltd.

Reds
Santa Duc Selections, les vieilles vignes, Cotes du Rhone, 2000. $9 (sale)
When you order a glass of red wine at a Parisian bistro, it will most likely be a fairly ho-hum Cotes du Rhone. This wine, also labeled as a CDR, puts the others to shame with its fat, lush, leathery complexity, soft tannins and long finish. From the excellent Rhone producer Domaine Santa Duc, this mostly grenache blend is actually a Chateauneuf in disguise since that is where the vineyard lies. Bottling under their lesser label makes it easy on the palate and on the wallet, especially during the October sales! Look for similar overstocks and reductions now at your local retailer. Robert Kacher, importer.

Domaine les Grands Bois, Cuvée les Trois Soeurs, Cotes du Rhone, 2001. $8
Marc Besnardeau was a sommelier in Paris when he met Mireille Farjon, whose family had a winery in the Rhone. A decade ago they married, moved to the Rhone, and Marc became the winemaker. Having honed his palate, Marc knew what to make from his old-vines and the result is a range of wines that should be on every bargain hunter’s wine list. This particular cuvee, called the three sisters after their girls (photo right), is a medium-bodied and fruit-forward blend of mostly grenache and syrah that may not be age-worthy but certainly will impress your friends—and daughters over 21?—now. Weygandt-Metzer, importer.

Chateau Mourgues du Gres, Les Galets Rouges, AOC Costieres de Nimes, 2001. $9
Denim, the original product “de Nimes,” helps to remember this up-and-coming growing area. With such a high percentage of excellent small growers, this pebbly growing area just south of chateauneuf deserves close attention, particularly from us bargain hounds. And the 2001 vintage has grown in importance since in 2002 the region was flooded shortly prior to the harvest. Anne and François Collard (who also make an excellent rosé) have crafted this gem called galets rouges, or “red roof tiles,” from a mostly syrah blend to resemble a classy Cote Rotie. The supple tannins and dark fruits make it a real winner. Get it while you can!

Apollonio, Terragnolo, Primitivo, 2000. $9.99
This luscious wine is not your typical Italian red. Grown well outside of the main wine areas, this wine comes from Puglia in the “heel” of Italian boot. And it’s not a sangiovese as are so many Italian reds, this one is made with the primitive grape, a distant relative of zinfandel. Not peppery as are many American zins, dark cherry and truffles are instead the main notes on the palate, and it is velvety and smooth with a pleasant finish. Try to pair this one with a risotto. Salute! Imported by Vin Divino.

Tres Picos, Garnacha, D.O. Campo de Borja, Spain, 2002, $8.
Tres Picos is back! This cooperative from the remote Campo de Borja region of Spain returns with another excellent vintage of old-vine Grenache. The varietal, common in the Rhone, often assumes a supporting role to syrah but is excellent as a lead performer as well. Slightly sweeter than syrah, this medium-bodied red has gobs of dark fruits including black cherry, a dash of white pepper, and a long finish. The excellent packaging of the sturdy bottle and sleek label makes it a gift whose recipient will assume it is at least double the price. Enjoy with foods ranging from pork to paella.

Excelsior, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002. $8
When South Africa burst on to the international wine scene with democratization in the mid-1990s, many of the acres under vine produced the local pinotage grape. But now more vineyard owners are planting international varietals and this is a great value example. A deep, rich red in color, aromas of blackcurrant leap from the glass and the full-bodied texture of the wine will make it a favorite for those who like big reds. And with an October sale price of $5.21, how can you go wrong?

Thorn-Clarke, Shiraz, Barossa, 2002. $9.49
If you have heard the word “jammy” used to describe a wine and have not understood it, you need look no further. The wine practically coats the side of the glass as if it were spread on there with a knife. Fans of big, muscular reds may find this as good as it gets under $10. The earthy notes and dark fruits of this vintage make for a pleasant complexity (although those able to get the Shotfire Shiraz 2002 $16 will find it similarly big but more refined). The winery is family-owned, which is not actually rare in Oz, but hard to find in the US among all the imports from the enormous Oz producers. Imported by Kysela Pere et Fils. www.thornclarkewines.com

Beyond the $10 grade (but worth it):
Maison Rijckaert, Macon Villages white 2001 $14
Artadi Vinas de Gain, Rioja, 2001, $16
Thorn-Clarke, Shotfire Shiraz, 2002, $16
Torbreck, Woodcutter’s Red, 2002, $15