North American Pinot Noir


I was so intimidated when I first got the 450-page tome that is North American Pinot Noir that I pulled a trick from teaching undergrads out of my hat: I scheduled a class where I would have to read it. Having taught the class I can let you know that you don’t have to take such extreme measures to enjoy the book on your own.

Pinotfiles around the world–not just in North America–should welcome the book by John Winthrop Haeger. While it’s not something you’ll want to tote along to the beach this summer, it is an essential reference for pinotfiles–and pinotphobes, I might add, since it may help remove some of the fear of this grape whose followers seems so fanatical.

Haeger has a very readable history of the grape both in Burgundy and in America. Despite the title of the book there are a lot of comparisons between America and Burgundy, as well as among the US regions (mainly CA and OR).

The detailed producer profiles in the second half are a huge asset to collectors and casual consumers. Certainly not all notable producers of pinot are included–no Dehlinger, no Marcassin, no Loring–but what he lacks in breadth he makes up for in depth. Many of the old guard receive extensive and thoughtful including Calera, Rochioli, Merry Edwards, Williams-Selyem, Eyrie, Panther Creek, and many more. Most importantly, Haeger writes thoughtful tasting notes completely devoid of numerical scores for various wines of each producer profiled.

The book was a great guide for my class and I will find it useful in selecting pinots for the Dr. Vino cave. Stimulating the mind and the palate–now that’s something I can drink to!

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