Dr Vino's wine blog

As the top wine producing country with a population that drinks about 13 gallons a year for each person, you would think that it would be easy to buy wine in France. Well, you’d be right. And you’d be wrong.

Unlike America, where “blue laws” dominate the sale of wine in many states, it is unbelievably easy to buy wine in France. I’ve seen wine for sale in flower shops and in corner stores, direct from the producer at a farmer’s market and at big box retailers. But the real trouble can be something good–or at least finding the exact thing that you might want.

In the regions, regional wines dominate independent shops, or cavistes. This makes sense since wine has historically been consumed close to where it is grown. But if you want a Sancerre with your salad, then you can be out of luck if you are in Savoie.

There are hundreds if not thousands of these specialty stores in the country. Outside of Paris, based on my somewhat small sample, I found cavistes to have a wide selection of regional wines and little else. In Paris, not all cavistes have air conditioning though most have cooler, underground storage. I visited a shop a few days ago that was about 95 degrees inside and had an eclectic inventory of vintages (including a NZ sauvignon blanc from 2002–eegad!). But, hey, not all wine shops feel the love.

Shopping at a large supermarket (hypermarche) provides a lot more choice across regions. However, they often lack depth in vintages, sometimes overly emphasize private labels and have scant staffing–it’s a supermarket after all. The top few chains account for the lion’s share of French wine sales. There are occasionally interesting producers there–even some top Bordeaux wines sell through big retailers. At one huge Casino store I bought wines from Jean-Luc Colombo and Clos la Coutale in Cahors. But I had to pass over a lot of pretty uninspiring wines to get to find those.

French wine making may be on the cusp of radical change. French wine retailing should keep up with trends in retailing more generally as well as wine retailing. Over the next week or so, I will write up some worthwhile shops–and even some wine bars–in Paris. Who knows, maybe better stores would help slow or reverse the declines in French wine consumption? Or at least make this iconic product more accessible to the country’s 75 million tourists?

See my map of Paris wine shops

How do winemaking and terroir affect malbec? We put this to the test recently with a leading wine from Argentina’s Mendoza region and the Cahors in France where the grape is also known as cot.

On my trip to Mendoza earlier this year, one of the most exciting wineries I visited was the Clos de los Siete project. Seven French investors, including many wine making families such as Rothschild (Lafite) and Cuvelier (Poyferré) joined forces under the teutalage of Michel Rolland, the “flying winemaker” par excellence who is also a stakeholder. They bought a vast plot of 850 heactares (over 2000 acres) in the Val de Uco at the base of the Andes and planted a small sea of vines, mostly malbec.

Each of the families either makes or will make their own wine but collectively they pool some grapes to make the Clos de los Siete wine, available for about $15 (Find this wine). This 2003 is mostly malbec but also includes some cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and some syrah (!).

Against this wine, I poured blind the 2002 Clos la Coutale, which I bought in NYC for about $12 (Find this wine). From Cahors, the Clos La Coutale, a blend of mostly malbec with a little merlot and cab franc, is imported to the US by Kermit Lynch.

One wine exploded with rich aromas and flavors of violets, blackberries and tobacco from the glass. It had a round, soft complex mouthfeel and a good finish. The second wine was inky dark in color, and had a much more truncated flavor range with a certain tartness on the finish.

After the unveiling, wine #1 was the Clos de los Siete and wine #2 was the Cahors.

Although the malbec from Mendoza showed better that evening, a note of caution is necessary because of the 15 percent alcohol stated on the label. It’s big. The complexity would probably make a great BBQ wine for those tired of zinfandel.

This wine reminded me of a Cadillac Escalade: it’s fun to take it for a spin once, but who wants to own it and pay the gas bill? Drink too much of this one and you may be paying for it the next day.

* * * * *

Now in France, I found a bottle of the Clos la Coutale 2003 and tried it. The bottle showed much better–more full-bodied, more round, more complex, and even “bigger.” Pity I couldn’t taste this much better vintage against the Clos de los Siete. Especially since I got it for 7 euros ($8.90). Ah well, I’ll throw it in a future malbec match-up with some more wines from the two regions.

tags: wine | malbec | wine tasting

The Perigord–aka the Dordogne–specializes in three declining agricultural products: wine, tobacco, and foie gras. Although wine consumption is rising in the US, it is headed the other way in France. Grape vines used to be more abundant up the Dordogne River in centuries gone by but now it is pretty much limited to the thirteen appellations around Bergerac. Bordeaux lies downriver what is today a couple of hours drive. Cahors and its vineyards lies to the south on the River Lot but several wines are available in the Dordogne. I’m tasting through many of these wines and some of my notes and picks will follow.

Originally imported from America, the producers in the region used to make dark tobacco that was a specialty of French cigarettes (think Gauloises). But dwindling demand for that has led growers to transition to lighter varieties for the international market–or stop production altogether.

The Perigord has typically been a center for foie gras production. This, the object of American bans and boycotts, is produced and consumed throughout the region. More on this fascinating subject too in future postings.

The region is also known for other gastronomic delights including its walnuts, truffles and strawberries. We bought some strawberries in town over the weekend and finished the whole box before we got back to the kitchen. They are like candy. It’s great to have real strawberry flavors. Too often at home strawberries look pumped up and are strangely white inside and relatively flavorless.

I have managed to find a way on to the internet so I can resume a more normal schedule of posting . Although we’ll see just how normal–excuse me while I go get the rose…

tags: wine |

It’s crazy. Decanter reports that Latour and Margaux have now released their futures prices at more than £4000 ($7,300) a case. As I mentioned previously, this raises serious questions of whether you are going to put a roof over your head or a wine in your cellar (yes, cellar, not belly).

But the craziest part is that there is demand for these futures (the wines won’t arrive until 2008). Retailers from LA to London are talking about how even at these prices, they don’t think they will be able to get enough for their customers. That’s part of the reason the top chateaus waited this long to release their prices, hoping to be able to whip up demand and keep as much profit for themselves. Robert Parker recently accused them of greed.

But why not let it rip? In the same way that an IPO opening day gain is money that the company left on the table, chateaus fear a rise in price once the wine leaves the cellar door as lost profit:

Chateau Margaux general director Paul Pontallier told decanter.com, ‘the market decides the price. If we had released at a lower price the wine would have gone to London and then been sold on at its real market value. Our choice is limited.’

So why not try a “Dutch auction”? Let buyers bid on the wine and then the market really will set the price–with greater profits accruing to the chateau.

The only problem is the next vintage. What if it stinks? The producers need the negociants and retailers to push it. Cutting them out through a Dutch auction in an excellent year would no doubt alienate them in a future bad one.

The Dutch drained the swampy Medoc in the 17th century. The Dutch auction will not be draining consumers anytime soon.

tags: wine | Bordeaux 2005 | Dutch auctions

Clos Roche Blanche, Touraine, Cabernet, 2004. ABV: 12%. $15

There’s good news and bad news about this wine. Good news: I loved it. Bad news: I’ve only got two bottles left. And I can’t find anymore available online.

I bought six bottles of this wine after Lyle at Crush Wine called it the year’s best wine (or something like that) back in December. We drank one here at the Dr. Vino World HQ when we got it, gave one away, and had another bottle with friends. So thanks to Tim’s theme of low alcohol reds for Wine Blogging Wednesday, we were able crack open another one tonight. Hey–it’s low alcohol so I can still write afterward!

This unfiltered, hand-harvested, natural yeast, vine-ripened (sorry, couldn’t resist) blend of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon is what the importer calls “real wine.” This wine has a sense of place. And it has a sense of balance. Red berries are present on the attack but not overwhelming and it has a delicate, flinty midpalate and a soft finish. Served at 60 degrees, this wine is perfect for a summer evening that merits a serious wine, which in our case, just happened to be a Wednesday night. Pity I didn’t get a full case.

Importer: Louis/Dressner, NY.

tags: wine | WBW | Loire

Bordeaux exports are rallying and distillation should be liberalized the executive director of CIVB, the Bordeaux wine trade group told DrVino.com today. continue reading…

Many journalists and wine retailers are descending on Bordeaux next week to taste the barrel samples of the supposedly superlative (and this time they mean it!) 2005 vintage. But last weekend I headed in the opposite direction to taste some excellent Bordeaux: I went to Chicago.

The wines that I tasted weren’t in the barrel. In fact, the 2002s that I tried have been available for a year or more. They have even been on retailers’ shelves for so long that I found a good one having a sale on 02 Bordeaux and couldn’t resist snapping up some bargains from what turned out to be an overlooked vintage.

The cause of the trip to Chicago was a class at the University of Chicago. The 30 attendees and I pondered the problems and potential in the two French regions of Bordeaux and Languedoc. It turns out that one of the participants has a blog of her own, so I’ll refer you to her for more detailed notes.

Here’s the lineup with little scribble on each. Overall head to the Medoc to scoop up the bargains that are 2002 Bordeaux.

Cinquante Cinq Viognier vin de pays d’oc $10 (find this wine)
Ho-hum, gets the job done. On the deck in the summer that is.

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, 2003 Pessac-Leognan ($30) (find this wine)
Crisp acidity but a surprising amount of oak. Give this to a New Zealander and she would never guess that it’s Sauvignon Blanc.

Domaine Des Schistes Cotes Du Roussillon Villages 2003 $12 (find this wine)
Balanced between acidity and tannin, taste the terroir! Easy drinking for Monday – Thursday.

Chateau D’Aussieres Corbieres 2003 $22 (find this wine)
I had to include this since it is a Lafite-owned project in the Corbieres–a synthesis of our two regions. Sadly, it was a tannic monster that I doubt will ever settle down.

Mas de Daumas Gassac, vdp d l’Herault 2003. $30 (find this wine)
When I poured it blind, the consensus was Bordeaux. Well, it is 80% Cab (and 20% of 10 other varieties) after all. It’s a serious wine from renegade winemaker Aime Guibert that has a long finish and would no doubt last decades in the cellar. This was the wine of the class for many people.

Chateau Gruaud Larose, 2002 Saint-Julien $38 (find this wine)
Approachable at this early age, balanced, mmm, delicious.

Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron – 2002 Pauillac $40 (find this wine)
Too young now for the Baron, but a serious wine that will be better in 3 years.

Chateau Cos D’Estournel – 2002 Saint-Estephe $65 (find this wine)
Excellent, dark, blackcurrant, tannins, slightly disappointing finish. But 50% more than the Baron? Bring me the Baron!

Chateau Suduiraut – 2002 Sauternes $22 375ml (find this wine)
Classic Suaternes at a very reasonable price. I bought more later.

Abbe Rous, Helyos, 2003, Banyuls, $40 (find this wine)
Very rich, but not unbalanced or over-the-top. One person ran out and got his wife a chocolate bar and she said it was a great pairing!

Separately I tasted the 2002 Lafon Rochet (find this wine). Approachable now but still could benefit from a year or two (or 10) in the cellar. This is the steal of the vintage at $20. I bought a case!

Note: I hope to see you for the Pinot Showdown, May 13, University of Chicago.

tags: wine | Bordeaux | Languedoc

Spring has sprung with the vernal equinox last week. It’s time for you to spring for some Savennieres–or at least a dry Chenin Blanc.

I have tried several wines from this 700-acre appellation on the banks of the Loire recently and while they are undoubtedly great at all times of the year, they seemed particularly appropriate for spring. Floral on the nose, totally filling the mouth with a rich intensity, minerality and acidity, the wines are rewarding and worth it even if they cost about $25 a bottle.

So, on to the wines. I wrote about the Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillion 2002 (find this wine) recently and how it pleased a small crowd.

Madame de Jessey of Domaine de Closel poured me a taste of her 03 Papllion (find this wine) out of decanter, “always the best way for a Savennieres,” she said. Barrel fermented, this wine had a softness that made it attractive beyond the other regional characteristics.

Finally, I had the wines of La Coulee de Serrant. Nicolas Joly told me that despite the heat of the 2003 vintage, his biodynamically farmed wines weathered well. In his entry-level Les Clos Sacres (find this wine) was rich in color, had soaring aromas, and an excellent balance between acidity and minerality. Joly recommended opening the wines 12-24 hours before drinking them and said they can continue to improve–not even deteriorate!–for 3 to 5 days. That’s a claim I’d like to put to the test.

In her 1996 Wine and Food Guide to the Loire, Jacqueline Friedrich also recommends Clos du Coulaine, Clos de Perrieres, and Chateau d’Epire as other top producers in the small area. She also says that the wines are quite age worthy (the 1975 Baumard Papillion was “so glorious it brought tears to my eyes,” she writes). Even Robert Parker told the New York Times last week that “I still think Savennières is the most underrated great white wine in the world.”

With praise like that, you’d better spring for the Savennieres before it’s all gone!

tags: wine | Savennieres | Chenin Blanc