Michel Rolland out: was he pushed or did he jump?
Michel Rolland, the controversial wine maker whose signature adorns over 100 wines around the world, has announced he will be stopping his consulting work to some 20 chateaus in Bordeaux. Rolland was placed on a low circle of the inferno in the 2005 documentary Rolland drops Bordeaux consultancies
decanter.com, February 8, 2007
By Adam Lechmere, and Panos Kakaviatos
“Michel Rolland has dropped some 20 consultancies – among them Chateau Kirwan – because of pressure of work.” Continue
Rolland leaves Chateau Kirwan under Mondovino cloud
decanter.com, January 29, 2007
By Panos Kakaviatos
“Celebrated flying winemaker Michel Rolland has left Chateau Kirwan, with the estate owners saying they are looking for higher quality.” Continue reading in cached version–original page is now mysteriously blank.
So was he pushed or did he jump?
Related: “Meeting Michel Rolland”
“Michel Rolland: the man, the myth, the legend“
On February 9th, 2007 at 10:48 pm ,Terry Hughes wrote:
“What goes around comes around, I’ll tell you why” (Ratt)
Sounds like he was pushed. Went off to lick his wounds and left poor Dany to deal with the media.
Thank God Bordeaux has waked up at last.
On February 10th, 2007 at 8:33 pm ,Joe wrote:
Somewhat irrelevant – whether they kicked him out or he left, they will keep using his methods.
On February 11th, 2007 at 9:53 am ,Dr. Vino wrote:
Hey Joe,
Thanks for stopping by. You’re right that if he’s gone, he’s gone regardless of whether he was forced out or left of his own accord.
But we will have to see who assumes the wine making duties after him at those 20 properties (unfortunately decanter did not list them all for us to easily track). Some of them may seize this as an opportunity to change course.
Indeed, a recent news story (on decanter.com!) talked about a backlash against high-alcohol wines at Marks & Spencer. Roll the tape:
“The supermarket’s wine technologist Sue Daniels told decanter.com, ‘High alcohol wines have had their day. We will be trying to source more wines at 12% alcohol, rather than 14% in the future.'”
To the extent Rolland contributes to this phenomenon, it could be interpreted a backlash against him. Has his influence reached its zenith?
On February 11th, 2007 at 2:53 pm ,Joe wrote:
Hi Doc, thanks for the reply.
It is my belief that the consumer gets what the consumer wants, and Rolland made the wines that a group of consumers wanted. Rolland may suddenly be unfashionable these days, but traditionalists are being pressured in every region (Barolo, Napa, Rioja, Sicily, etc., etc.) worldwide. It is a quaint idea that a winemaker is an artist working with the tools that nature gave him, but most wineries are small businesses, teetering on bankruptcy or barely profitable. Those that have switched to producing ‘modern’ wines have done so because the market was demanding that.
The market has changed, with millions of new wine buyers entering the market that have never experienced aged Bordeaux or the thrill of building a cellar. It is not necessarily something I prefer, but I have served ‘traditional’ wines to wine neophytes and the reaction is rarely positive.
Maybe the tide is turning again, but my previous comment really expresses my view that the market will not change dramatically, and it doesn’t really matter to me either way – I have so much choice in wine these days that I can appreciate a variety of grapes (and blends) from a multitude of regions, in both modern and traditional style, whenever I want. I don’t love it or hate it, but I do think Rolland and his style remain influential for many years.
Cheers!