Oversight or undercite?

In last week’s NYT story on champagne from ungrafted vines, Eric Asimov had this line:

A recent column in Wine & Spirits magazine speculated that as much as a third of the vines in Spain were ungrafted.

This is an all-too-rare example of one consumer wine publication citing another. Congratulations Eric!

Why does this happen so infrequently? Isn’t everybody on this voyage of wine discovery together?

He also had this nice observation:

But objectivity is often useless with wine. The same bottle will taste different at a candlelight dinner with your sweetheart than it will, say, in a fluorescent office.

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