Dr Vino's wine blog

Spring has sprung with the vernal equinox last week. It’s time for you to spring for some Savennieres–or at least a dry Chenin Blanc.

I have tried several wines from this 700-acre appellation on the banks of the Loire recently and while they are undoubtedly great at all times of the year, they seemed particularly appropriate for spring. Floral on the nose, totally filling the mouth with a rich intensity, minerality and acidity, the wines are rewarding and worth it even if they cost about $25 a bottle.

So, on to the wines. I wrote about the Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillion 2002 (find this wine) recently and how it pleased a small crowd.

Madame de Jessey of Domaine de Closel poured me a taste of her 03 Papllion (find this wine) out of decanter, “always the best way for a Savennieres,” she said. Barrel fermented, this wine had a softness that made it attractive beyond the other regional characteristics.

Finally, I had the wines of La Coulee de Serrant. Nicolas Joly told me that despite the heat of the 2003 vintage, his biodynamically farmed wines weathered well. In his entry-level Les Clos Sacres (find this wine) was rich in color, had soaring aromas, and an excellent balance between acidity and minerality. Joly recommended opening the wines 12-24 hours before drinking them and said they can continue to improve–not even deteriorate!–for 3 to 5 days. That’s a claim I’d like to put to the test.

In her 1996 Wine and Food Guide to the Loire, Jacqueline Friedrich also recommends Clos du Coulaine, Clos de Perrieres, and Chateau d’Epire as other top producers in the small area. She also says that the wines are quite age worthy (the 1975 Baumard Papillion was “so glorious it brought tears to my eyes,” she writes). Even Robert Parker told the New York Times last week that “I still think Savennières is the most underrated great white wine in the world.”

With praise like that, you’d better spring for the Savennieres before it’s all gone!

tags: wine | Savennieres | Chenin Blanc